The Asquith – Does Glynn Purnell’s new Birmingham restaurant venture deliver?

The Asquith Restaurant and Ginger’s Bar by Glynn Purnell – Living up to expectations?

There are not many things, that on a damp and dreary November evening can prevent me from scurrying straight home from work, but an opportunity to try the new Gingers Bar and Asquith Restaurant was certainly one of them. Having previously eaten at the Asquith when it was in its former location, I knew that we would be in for a treat.

After The Asquith (originally Michelin Starred Jessica’s) finally closed its doors at the beginning of 2011, (ETM were one of the last bookings as a birthday treat, and were still impressed at Chef Jason Eaves balanced dishes, and flavour), Glynn promised us he would re-open his second restaurant with the original team, whilst setting his sights on a project that would open as a joint venture – as always, Glynn delivered his promise, and we were one of the first Midlands reviewers invited to sample his new venture.
The new location on Newhall Street, a large 6,000ft+ site, formerly occupied by ‘Must’ dim sum bar and restaurant, has now undergone a £150,000 refurbishment.  The theme is adapted from the Ginger Rogers and Fred Astaire era, we were told designed to inject “a touch of elegance and flamboyance into Birmingham’s bar and restaurant scene.”

Ginger’s Bar is perfect for dropping in after a hard day in the office (or a tough day shopping!) to kick back with friends and enjoy their extensive and imaginative cocktail list. The bar was buzzing as we were shown to a cosy window table and handed the drinks list. Being very partial to a cocktail or two, we were pleased to see that as well as the classic selection, there were seasonal selections (at present using Autumnal berries) as well as a fusion inspired list – “lamb and mint Sunday dinner in a glass” anyone?

After sampling a few of the waitresses recommendations (one of which was their homemade fiery ginger beer, which certainly lived up to its billing) we moved through to the restaurant at the rear of Ginger’s Bar. Warm freshly baked bread swiftly appeared followed by an appetizer of hot goat’s cheese balls (from Brock Hall Farm Goats Cheese in Shropshire we understand) with chestnut puree. The wine list offers a good selection of wines both by the glass and bottle, we settled for a Montepulciano and a Sauvignon Blanc whilst we pondered the menu.
Although we were tempted by the tasting menu, we finally settled on the A La Carte Menu. After a good hearted squabble about who was having what, we chose a starter of smoked haddock risotto with crunchy brown bread topping followed by a main of roasted cod on butterbeans, and the poached hens egg starter and the lemon sole main (from the great value lunch menu which they very kindly accommodated as an extra request, but dont say we mentioned this!)
The food was refined without being pretentious with clean flavours and beautifully presented. The risotto was creamy and light with a warm smokiness from the haddock, the hens egg was poached to perfection and the rich yolk oozed as you cut into it. The mains were equally delicious. Both exemplary, light, balanced, and provided a depth of flavour memorably achieved at their previous, sadly problematic  location just off the Hagley Road (but let’s not open those wounds of Glynn’s and his bank manager!) – Once we tickled these off, and chatting about the flavours, and rich use of colours,  we were only left with the hardship of having to choose dessert. Our decision was made quickly when we spotted the chocolate caramel crème fraiche truffle with banana sorbet – which turned out to be utterly gorgeous. The truffle wasn’t too rich, the sorbet was silky and the addition of sticky caramelised banana was divine. The lemon meringue parfait with chocolate sorbet and sour lemon jelly was almost as good! There is a great choice of dessert wines and digestifs to conclude your meal with and although we were too full to sample them, the petit four selection that is served with tea and coffee looked wonderful.

The staff were friendly and attentive throughout the evening without being over bearing, the restaurant manager Julie was especially helpful and her experience and knowledge shone through. The menus offered good choice with plenty of fish, good meat selection (note the vegetarian dishes tucked at the back of the menu!) and great value.
To fully bring all the elements together and to take the overall dining experience up a notch, it would be nice to see a little more of Glynn’s personality reflected in the restaurant décor.

The style is quite minimalist to the point of being bland in certain areas of the dining room with bare white walls, there was a feature floor light that had been added, but sadly it was not switched on. With a little more warmth, texture and a little more opulence in this room, it would create more atmosphere and really help to compliment the high standard of the food, drinks and service. We were reassured this was in hand, but feel the touch of a good woman sooner or later would help the (any) cause!

We will be back to see and taste the Asquith’s evolution.

More in Birmingham’s Gingers Bar and the Asquith website (coming soon!)

Read our interview with Glynn Purnell and more on the new Asquith Restaurant development

Review by S.Ness of ETM (c) 2011