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Chef Andy Waters at the Queens Belbroughton ~ Sunday Review

Andy Waters with the Eat the Midlands

Andy Waters with the Eat the Midlands

Sunday lunch at the Queen’s Belbroughton, Worcestershire

Sunday lunch should be a simple meal traditionally based on a roast followed by a fresh fruit dessert.  At its very best it should be cooked by arguably the best chef in the Midlands – Andy Waters.  He is the finest example of a no-frills chef that I know.  He may not display the complex fusion of Glynn Purnell, or the sophisticated elegance of Luke Tipping at Simpsons – with whom a few years ago he shared the kitchens at Andreas Antona’s original Simpson in Kenilworth.

A bluff Bromsgrovian, in the past few weeks Andy and his kitchen brigade have escaped from his critically acclaimed restaurant, Edmunds in Birmingham’s sophisticated Brindleyplace, to the peace and quiet of the Queen’s at Belbroughton. Here Andy and his wife Beverley offer a haven of excellently prepared fresh local fare, with a superbly cooked Sunday lunch at only £13.95 for two course or £17.95 for three.  During the week the table d’hôte drops down to £12.00 for two course or £16.00 for three, plus a typical Andy Waters A La Carte (we have already enjoyed, and marvelled, at the mid week selections – and the Sunday Lunch was the icing on the cake).  I must take the blonde there one evening for dinner and give it a whirl.

My recent Sunday lunch began with a delicious cream of parsnip soup, served with crusty whole grain bread and roast sirloin, two more than adequate proper slices of pink beef, accompanied by all the usual suspects of veg’ and an angelically light Yorkshire pudding.  This was followed by a red fruit and apple crumble with a proper custard.  A small glass of most acceptable Chilean Merlot and a small bottle of sparkling Malvern water accompanied the meal while a really decent black cup of coffee brought the whole meal to a most fitting conclusion.

A word or two about the service.  It was, like the food, outstanding.  Young girls, properly trained, who smiled and served as if to the manner born.  So who said that the English don’t make good waiters and waitresses?  If you want to see how it should be done go to the Queens, it even has a car park and although the wine list may be a little short, it does offer a very good selection of beers.Full review to follow soon….

Reviewed by Philippe Boucheron for ETM (c) May 2012

More on the Queens Belbroughton and Chef Andy Waters

Chef Andy Waters at the Stove, The Queens Belbroughton

Chef Andy Waters at the Stove, The Queens Belbroughton

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